Where to Live? A Guide to South Korean Cities and Provinces

 
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Part of my EPIK series, my guides and how-tos for teaching in South Korea.

Everyone knows Seoul, but there’s so much more to Korea.

If you’re thinking of moving here, where should you go? What if you’re not into big cities? Or—more likely, you doubt you’ll beat the odds and get placed in Seoul with all the insane competition.

If you’re applying to English Program in Korea (EPIK) through a recruiter, they’ve probably already warned you off applying to Seoul. Everyone wants to go to Seoul.

So, where to go? Here’s a breakdown of the 7 major cities and 9 regions in South Korea.

 
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if you want to be in public schools…

Choosing a private school (hagwon) means you can choose a school in any location you want. Yay!

If you want to go through EPIK (public schools) then read this:

On the EPIK application, you’ll be asked for one office of education preference. That’s because EPIK is actually just an intermediary—the organization that hires you is either an Metropolitan Office of Education (MOE) or a Provincial Office of Education (POE ). For example, I’m an employee of the Daejeon MOE.

You can choose any of the 7 MOEs or 9 POEs, but keep in mind the program is mostly first-come, first-serve—so if you’re applying more than a month after apps open or with a recruiter, your chances of getting Seoul are low. Not impossible. Just low.

UPDATE: This is changing as of 2022. We’re not sure how this will work. But if the selection process is more merit-based, then experienced teachers or Education majors might have more of a shot at a big city.

The 7 MOEs in Korea will be their own option (e.g. Daejeon the city is listed as Daejeon, not its province).

Cities in POEs won’t be listed. So if you’re hoping for the specific city like, say, Sokcho in Gangwon Province, you’ll just have to pick Gangwon Province and hope for the best.

You can also choose to have no preference, but anecdotally, everyone I know who’s done that has ended up in Gangwon Province.

Also…most places in Korea look very similar. There are exceptions and differences, absolutely—but generally, most places have the same look, amenities, and chains. You can find great people, the cutest cafes, and cool art exhibits anywhere.

Metropolitan options

The big, big cities.

Seoul - 10.1 Million

 
Itaewon neighborhood in Seoul

Itaewon neighborhood in Seoul

 

The capital and the biggest city by far. Cosmopolitan, massive, exciting…but can be claustrophobic. The city is very dense and known for its “ppalli ppalli 빨리빨리” (fast fast) lifestyle.

You’ll have access to everything. Two airports, concerts, shopping, art galleries, and museums. Each district of Seoul has its own personality. This is where the majority of foreigners live and you’ll never lack options to find friends (or international food).

But it’s very competitive. There are few EPIK spots and hagwon jobs go quick. It’s also more expensive. A lot more.

Also, Seoul residents don’t often leave Seoul, despite its robust transportation to other parts of the country. Turns out having everything at your fingertips can discourage you from leaving.

Note: Seoul’s teachers are technically under SMOE, not EPIK (kind of synonymous these days.) You need to fill out an extra form for your application.

Who should apply:

  • You love big, big cities

  • You’re applying fast OR (depending on changes to EPIK) are an experienced teacher

  • You don’t mind getting placed somewhere random

  • You’re more interested in exploring Seoul than the rest of Korea

  • You’re most interested in nightlife/foreign foods/events

  • You want a huge expat community/queer scene


Busan - 3.5 Million

 
Gamcheon Culture Village in Busan

Gamcheon Culture Village in Busan

 

Busan is the second biggest city and honestly is my favorite in all of Korea. About 3 hours from Seoul by KTX, it’s right on the coast and Korea’s most important port city. You’ll have easy access to the beach and fresh seafood. Busan natives are known for their machismo and their unique satoori (accent).

In my opinion, Busan is grittier and more old-school than Seoul. It’s also home to many festivals, like the Busan Film Festival.

More people would apply here through EPIK if it weren’t for its extra requirement: you must have 60 hours of in-person practicum hours with your required TEFL course OR a teaching license OR one year’s experience teaching.

Who should apply:

  • You love big cities

  • You’re an experienced teacher or have the 160+ hour TEFL

  • You love the beach

  • You’re interested in nightlife

  • You want a big expat community


Incheon - 3.0 million

 
Chinatown in Incheon - from Dreamstime

Chinatown in Incheon - from Dreamstime

 

Incheon is an industrial port city right next to Seoul, home to Korea’s biggest airport, ICN. It’s sometimes considered part of the Seoul greater area because you can take a subway right into Seoul. It has lots of little islands to explore.

Incheon is campaigning to be extremely English friendly. Its city slogan is literally “Smile with English.” Despite this, the Western foreigner community is small. This is because the MOE usually doesn’t take many teachers—in my intake, they took only 4.

It also has the biggest Chinatown in all of SK and its underground shopping mall is massive.


Who should apply:

  • You want to be close to Seoul or the major airport

  • You want big city amenities but a smaller expat community

  • You dig port cities/the industrial vibe


Daegu - 2.5 Million

 
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Daegu is the hottest city in Korea. No, literally. It’s known for its heat and…also its conservatism. Older people in Daegu tend to be a bit more traditional.

However, it has a thriving expat community with a lot of western amenities. I’ve gone twice and each time I find more incredible things to try.

Who should apply:

  • You want a big city but not as overwhelming as Seoul or Busan

  • You like hot weather or really hate the cold

  • You want a big expat community

  • You like hiking

  • You are just a massive Suga from BTS fan (mostly joking)


Gwangju - 1.5 million

 
Outside of Gwangju, near the zoo

Outside of Gwangju, near the zoo

 

Gwangju is the biggest city in the south of Korea, the Jeolla region. It’s about 4 hours from Seoul. This is where the Gwangju Uprising took place, a democracy protest in 1980 that turned into a massacre. The people here are renowned for standing up for their beliefs.

The expat population here is small, but it’s still a big city with a subway and all the amenities. The south is more removed from other parts of Korea but there is an airport here and in Muan, a city close by.

The region is also known for having really good food and Gwangju boasts a Kimchi festival.

Who should apply:

  • You want a sleepy big city

  • You like hot weather

  • You are a big foodie (esp Korean food)

  • You don’t plan to leave the South much

  • You like hiking


Daejeon - 1.5 million

 
Expo park in Daejeon

Expo park in Daejeon

 

Ahhh Daejeon. Well, look, this is where I’ve been for almost 3 years so clearly I like it well enough. I even have a series devoted to the highlights of Daejeon.

Daejeon is one of the biggest cities and it’s right smack dab in the middle of Korea—which makes it very convenient for day trips. It’s only an hour KTX to Seoul. While it doesn’t have its own airport, there is one in Cheongju 45 minutes away.

The city has only has one subway line (as of 2021) so if you don’t live near it, it can take a while to get around. Daejeon is very spread-out.

The city gets a bad rap for being boring, but it’s big and if you dig even an inch deep, you can find art, music, amazing food, and really lovely people.

The expat population here is sizable. Many people don’t realize this, but there’s a lot of foreigners because of KAIST, the STEM university. (There’s a lot of tech in this city—it’s called Korea’s Silicon Valley.) The nightlife here is decent—nothing compared to Seoul, but better than your typical town. We also have some great roasters and breweries.

There’s many parks and mountains. It’s very beautiful in spring and summer...a little boring in winter. Because we’re in the middle of the country, the closest beach is 2 hours away.

Who should apply:

  • You want a sleepy big city

  • You want a slower pace of living

  • You want to travel all over Korea or be pretty close to Seoul

  • You want a big expat community

  • You like hiking


ulsan - 1.2 million

 
Daewangam Park in Ulsan — from tripadvisor.

Daewangam Park in Ulsan — from tripadvisor.

 

Ulsan is the smallest MOE. Located on the east coast, it’s got pretty beaches and a mild climate.

While it’s far from Seoul, it’s very close to Busan and Daegu (about an hour/half hour train). It has its own metro and, like the rest of Korea, a good public transportation system.

A great aspect of living in Ulsan is you’re close to the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom, Gyeongju. There’s some cool historical sites and parks around here.

Despite having 1.2 million people, it’s usually described as a slow-paced, sleepy town. There’s not much nightlife here. That might suit you just fine, though!


Who should apply:

  • You want a quiet medium-big city

  • You want a slower pace of living

  • You love the beach

  • You like hiking

  • You don’t plan to leave the south much


Provincial Options

The small cities in big areas.

 
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Provinces are hard to sum up. You can be in a big city (even up to 1 million people!) or…a not-so-big city.

If you’re going through EPIK and worried about being stuck in the rice paddies—try not to be. The extremely rural placements go through the TALK program.

UPDATE: the TALK program is being discontinued. What will this mean for rural placements? Will they be absorbed by EPIK? We don’t know yet.

But I’ll ask you to keep in mind that any city with fewer than one million people is considered a “small” city in SK—still very big by world standards.

Some benefits to working for a POE are:

  • You’ll get more of an incentive to explore Korea. Many people who live in the big cities don’t ever leave.

  • If you’re coming to Korea to save, consider a POE. EPIK teachers in smaller towns are likely to teach at more than one school, meaning you can get an extra 100,000 won bonus per month. Some towns will also qualify for the “rural placement” bonus, which is another 100,000 won per month. And you might be out less—which means saving more.

  • People will speak less English, but they’re less sick of foreigners. You’ll likely experience lots of kindness and staring. This still applies to POC but I’m white so I can only speak to what I’ve heard from my POC friends.

  • Cities and towns will often put all their English teachers (public or private) in one apartment building. Though expat communities in POEs will be smaller, they’re often closer-knit.

  • Outside of Gyeonggi Province, you usually get better air.

99% of the people I know who’ve gone to a POE absolutely love it.

So, let’s break them down.


Gyeonggi - 10 million

Suwon in Gyeonggi Province - from VisitKorea

Suwon in Gyeonggi Province - from VisitKorea

Gyeonggi’s name literally means “the area surrounding Seoul.” This is a province that, combined with Seoul, amounts to over 25 million people—about half the entire population of South Korea.

Because the province surrounds Seoul, you can easily visit with busses or even some subway lines. Incheon Airport is very accessible. It takes my friend 20 minutes to be in Seoul.

Its capital city is Suwon which has some cool historical sites. Many military members are in Gyeonggi; this is also the province that includes the DMZ. It has some attractions like the English Village and Everland.

Gyeonggi is still a province though, so what town you’ll actually end up in is a mixed bag. Most of the cities are around ~100,000-600,000 people. I’m generalizing a bit, but most of the province is culturally the same as Seoul—just quieter and with cleaner air.

Gyeonggi positions sometimes go through GEPIK, which is kind of like SMOE (Seoul’s version of EPIK). It’s pretty much the same as EPIK. But I’ll be honest: I don’t know a single GEPIK teacher, nor have I heard of any. I’m not even sure that many towns still run through GEPIK instead of EPIK. City halls fund this program, which means there’s few positions and they can’t afford to pay very high (max 2.2mil, compared to EPIK’s max 2.6mil). GEPIK prefers experienced teachers and some anecdotally report it’s likelier for teachers already IN Korea to be accepted.

You can apply separately through GEPIK, but like other regional programs, EPIK also can assign you to this region. In fact, I’d probably recommend you go through EPIK.

Who should apply:

  • You want to be close to Seoul or Incheon but don’t want/don’t expect to be actually placed there

  • You want a medium city and are fine with a smaller one

  • You plan to visit Seoul a lot


Gangwon - 1.5 Million

 
Nami island near Chuncheon City in Gangwon

Nami island near Chuncheon City in Gangwon

 

Gangwon is an interesting one. People treat it like it’s the boonies because the population density is so low, but I know so many people placed here who absolutely love it.

This region is waaaay up North—in fact, some of its cities (Sokcho, for example) are the closest you can get to North Korea besides the DMZ. It’s very mountainous so hiking is popular here. The climate here is much colder, but summers are milder. Many cities are right on the coast, and Koreans will vacation to Gangwon for its beaches.

Because it’s geographically the biggest province in SK, there’s lots of positions available.

Getting out of Gangwon depends on your city. Usually, the only option is with busses from Gangneung or Chuncheon. You can expect it to take 2-4 hours to Seoul. There is a small airport in Yangyang.

Most cities are small and walkable (my Gangwon friends are shocked at how many busses I take in Daejeon). The air is also much cleaner here.

Like I said above, the expat communities are much smaller here, but much closer. My friends say dating can be difficult because most young people leave for Seoul.

Who should apply:

  • You want a small town and slower pace of life

  • When people ask if you prefer the beach or mountains, you can’t decide

  • You don’t plan to leave Gangwon much

  • You love nature/love hiking

  • You don’t mind the cold or hate the heat

  • You want clean air

  • You want a small expat community


Chungcheong Region

 
Independence Hall of Korea in Cheonan, Chungnam Province

Independence Hall of Korea in Cheonan, Chungnam Province

 

Chungcheong contains two major provinces you can choose from: Chungbuk and Chungnam (literally: North Chungcheong and South Chungcheong…despite the two regions being more East/West than anything else).

These two regions are in the middle of the country, which makes it easy to travel.

Chungbuk - 1.5 million

Also known as Chungcheongbuk or North Chungcheong. It’s right next to Daejeon and Gyeonggi Province, making it easy to travel around Korea.

Most cities are in the range of 50,000-200,000 people, with its capital Cheongju having a population of 600,000~. Cheongju will have most of the same comforts of any medium-to-big Korean city. It also has its own airport.

To be honest, I don’t know anyone here and don’t hear anyone talk about this province, so I recommend checking out Snapshots With Sharon’s youtube channel. She doesn’t post anymore but she’s got some info on Chungbuk, specifically Chungju, which is the second largest city.

Usually, small cities in Chungbuk will place all the EPIK teachers in one building. Just like with Gangwon, the expat communities will be smaller but closer-knit.

Who should apply:

  • You want a small town and slower pace of life

  • You hope to travel to cities like Seoul or Daejeon

  • You love nature/love hiking

  • You want a small expat community


Chungnam - 2 million

Also known as Chungcheongnam or South Chungcheong. This is where Daejeon is! (Kind of—again, Daejeon is treated as its own region).

Chungnam is on the West coast of Korea, and its beaches are also popular here. You’re still in the middle-ish of Korea, so getting to Seoul is quick. Actually, the Seoul Subway Line 1 also runs here!

Its capital is Sejong, which is currently only 200,000 and very empty. But the SK gov wants to make Sejong the new administrative capital, so the infrastructure is currently being built and it’s the fastest growing province. In 10 years, this region will be much more populated. It’s currently the richest province in Korea.

The biggest city is Cheonan with ~600,000 people and home to the Independence Hall of Korea. A lot of Seoulites have been coming here to party on the weekends because restrictions are less strict than in Seoul.

Who should apply:

  • You want a small town and slower pace of life

  • You want to explore Korea but you’re fine with staying in Chungnam too

  • You want to be close to a beach

  • You want a small expat community


Jeolla Region

Also known as the Honam region. The Jeolla region is the southern most region of Korea. It’s the province that contains Gwangju and it’s split into two provinces you can choose from: Jeonbuk and Jeonnam.

It has the same sort of reputation you might get with the US South…which is to say people are viewed stereotypically and sometimes even negatively. The satoori (accent) here is strong.

The Jeolla region suffered a lot during Korea’s military dictatorships up until the 80s. Because of the lack of public funding, some parts of Jeolla are still catching up infrastructurally. The islands especially have issues with poverty and aging. This doesn’t mean it’s all rural or run-down, just that you might notice the difference when you travel around the rest of Korea.

Still, it’s a very proud region with lots of cultural sites—and renowned for the best food in all of Korea.

Jeonbuk - 1.8 million

Also known as Jeollabuk or North Jeolla.

Its capital city is Jeonju, which is about ~600,000 people and my second favorite city in all of Korea. Jeonju has the biggest (and, in my opinion, best) hanok traditional village and it actually has a really great LGBT scene with its own Pride festival.

The food here is some of the best—especially the raw beef bibimbap. It’s also famous for its bamboo forest.

Who should apply:

  • You want a small city but hope to travel to bigger ones like Gwangju

  • You like hot weather

  • You are a big foodie (esp Korean food)

  • You don’t plan to leave the South much

  • You are interested in traditional Korean culture

  • You want a small expat community and/or a queer community

Jeonnam - 1.9 million

Also known as Jeollanam or South Jeolla. This is where Gwangju is located, but the city is considered its own district. Instead, the capital is Muan County but the biggest city is Yeosu.

Jeollanam is technically its own program—JLP, the Jeollanam Language Program. While they’re functionally the same as EPIK, they have their own separate orientation. You can apply to JLP through a recruiter OR get assigned here by applying regularly thru EPIK. The JLP program has pretty good reviews and REALLY needs teachers these days.

Being the southern-most region, this province is warm and relaxed. Since most cities are on the coast, many Koreans will come to vacation during the summers—especially Yeosu, one of the most beautiful cities in Korea. Some placements are also on the islands.

Who should apply:

  • You want a small city or even an island

  • You like hot weather

  • You are a big foodie (especially Korean food)

  • You don’t plan to leave the South much

  • You are interested in traditional Korean culture

  • You want a small expat community


Gyeongsang Region

 
Andong Hanok Village in Gyeongbuk Province

Andong Hanok Village in Gyeongbuk Province

 

The Gyeongsang region is the area surrounding Busan, Ulsan and Daegu. It’s also split into two provinces you can choose from: Gyeongbuk and Gyeongnam.

Being the birthplace of Silla, it has tons of history. People here, like those who live in Busan or Daegu, have their own dialects and stereotypes. Likewise, it’s said to be more conservative here.

gyeongbuk - 2.7 million

Gyeongbuk is the northern Gyeongsang region and contains Gyeongju, which is one of the most historical sites in all of Korea. This is actually where they film most historical dramas. If you’re looking for traditional Korean culture, this is where you should go.

Gangwon juuuust beats it out as the largest province, but Gyeongbuk has more people.

The biggest city is Pohang, famous for its beaches, but its most well-known city is Andong with its massive traditional village. It’s about 3 hours by train to Seoul.


Who should apply:

  • You want a small city

  • You hope to be near the coast or a big city like Busan or Daegu

  • You don’t plan to leave Gyeongbuk much

  • You are interested in traditional Korean culture

  • You want a small expat community


Gyeongnam - 3.5 million

Gyeongnam is the southern Gyeongsang region. You’ll be in or close to some very cool cities like Changwon, Gimhae, and Jinju.

Gyeongnam is run under its own program, GOE, the Gyeongju Office of Education. It’s basically the same as EPIK (same contract, etc.) but it offers more flexibility with placement options. You can choose 2 cities and 2 rural options. Their orientation is shorter and they typically offer teachers more opportunities with special events.

This province is said to have a more laid-back vibe with lots of hiking and beaches nearby. Just like Busan, getting to Seoul might take 2-3 hours. Gimhae has its own international airport which rivals ICN.

During summer, you can hop around the islands. The nightlife here is said to be pretty good considering the sizes of its cities.


Who should apply:

  • You want a medium-to-small cities

  • When people ask if you prefer the beach or mountains, you can’t decide

  • You hope to be near a big city like Busan or Daegu

  • You don’t plan to leave Gyeongnam much

  • You want a small expat community


Jeju

 
Udo Island, off the coast of Jeju Island

Udo Island, off the coast of Jeju Island

 

Jeju Island is the big island off the coast of Korea. It’s often called the Hawaii of Korea, and it’s very beautiful in the summer.

If you want to lay back on the beach with crystal-blue waters, this is the place for you. It has a much more laid-back vibe. This is the traditional honeymoon spot so its tourism industry is very established. It’s also very windy here.

Jeju’s people have a very strong dialect and regional culture. Their women are known for being excellent divers and since these sea-faring women were typically the bread-winners, mainlanders regard their women as strong and respectable.

The island is great for teachers who are fine with staying put. Jeju is isolated by Korean standards. Getting to the mainland will require a ferry or airplane, so I don’t recommend if you want to go to Seoul on the weekends.

Despite the robust tourism infrastructure, public transportation on the island is minimal. Busses are few and far in-between; the island is too big to taxi everywhere. Most people rent or own cars. This is improving but something to consider.


Who should apply:

  • You want to live on an island

  • You’re hoping for a laid back vibe

  • You REALLY love the beach

  • You don’t mind tourists

  • You don’t plan to leave Jeju much, if ever

  • You want a small expat community


This is it for my guide to Korean cities and provinces! I know this is a lot, and much of it is either second-hand or generalization…but I wish I had a more detailed info like this when I was applying. Hopefully, this is helpful for potential English teachers deciding where to go—or just anyone who’s interested in a breakdown of the major areas in Korea.

Each region of Korea has its own history, culture, special food (or soju!) and more. I say this all the time but there is so much more to Korea than just Seoul. Even the most “po-dunk, backwater” of cities will have reasons to love it. You can make the most of it.

Worst case, move to Seoul after your first year. Thanks for reading!