A Day Trip to Daegu
Back in the sweltering heat of August 2018, I arrived with two suitcases, a duffel bag, and a whole lot of nerves to our EPIK orientation in Daegu. We were on a campus, clearly out of the city some, so I saw hardly anything of Daegu other than the CU down the street.
Since then, I’d heard my coteachers talk about Korea’s third biggest city, and its infamous makchang (막창), or grilled intestines, and the medicine street. Plus my second (or first?) favorite BTS member is from there. So, naturally, it’d always been my goal to return. Maybe not for the makchang because I’m a picky child—but for the rest.
So, bright and early on the last warm Saturday of the season, I headed to the Daejeon train terminal and left, arriving at noon in Daegu.
My first stop was to get brunch. I headed towards city hall and found Good buning (굿버닝), a little breakfast sandwich shop.
I chose their original, which was scrambled eggs, tomato compote and cheese on toasted buns. It was good, pretty cheap (only 3,500 or about $3) but a little plain. I would definitely want to try their hashbrown or avacado versions. I also ordered a carrot juice which was…well, definitely carrot-y. It was different but I liked it!
By then I was dying for some coffee, so I went to Ryu.
Ryu (류) is an awarded industrial-styled coffee house, known for their variety of brewed drip coffee. I ordered their Ethiopian Sidamo Kebado brew, which was 8,500 won, about $8. It was delicious while I’m glad I tried something new, their (cheaper) cafe latte would’ve probably hit the spot more.
After, I made my way to Ghost Books, an indie photography and art store. Most of the books are in Korean, but they have postcards and trinkets if you don’t speak it (which I don’t–not well enough to read novels in).
I found a cool watercolor book of scenes in Tokyo, complete with pencil sketches and tutorials for how the artist built up color. I’ve recently gotten into watercolors, so this was a must-buy.
From there, I decided to go to 83 Tower, which is Daegu’s answer to Namsan. It was 10,000 won (about $9ish) which was kind of pricey for what you get, but I got some cool shots. And I was able to sit and look out over the whole of Daegu, which is just so much more massive than it feels on the ground.
It was getting to be late afternoon by then, so my second-to-last stop was Kim Kwangseok Memorial Street (김광석길). It’s a little lane build into the side of a highway for the late Kim Kwangseok, a famous folk singer who’s often compared to Bob Dylan. The road is covered in murals, dedications to his art, and little shops for music lovers.
One particular favorite of mine was a take-out cafe that doubled as a records shop.
To end my day, I went out a little further to Greg’s Homegrown (그렉스 홈그로운 팜스탠드), a deli/organic farm stand run by an American. Update: Greg’s has recently closed down :(.
I came right before closing (6pm) and he made me a last pulled pork sandwich to go. When doing my research for Daegu. I knew I wanted to head here because the likes of pulled pork sandwiches and homemade hummus are hard, if not impossible, to find in Daejeon.
I chatted for a bit with Greg, who dabbles in a little bit of everything–coffee, cured meats, lamb stews, marinara sauce–and then headed back to the subway, where I ate my sandwich like the little gremlin I am.
At long last, I headed back to the train station and got back to Daejeon around 9pm, exhausted from so much walking and sightseeing.
So much of Korea can feel the same–expats often joke once you’ve been anywhere in Korea, you’ve seen it all. There’s a variety of reasons for this, but it’s not so much of a bad thing as it is just a status-quo.
And yet, despite sharing much of its qualities with the rest of the country, I could really see its pride, its special history, its niches–Kim Kwangseok Road was my favorite bit, because there was clearly so much love built into its message.
The gorgeous fall leaves, still remaining since this is the warmest part of the country, didn’t hurt my impression either.
I’d love to come back one day, and I probably will with friends. edit: I did. But for now, I’m pleased with my short little day trip.
